Some introductions
Aren’t they a handsome couple? That’s Rocky on the left (all young and
shiny and energetic), and Miss Silvia on the right. She’s not in the
first flush of youth, as you can see. Her logo is a bit worn, and she
doesn’t have the fancy steam knob and drip tray patterns of these newer
models. But inside she’s as strong and well-made as any new machine.
She’s seen a few shots and she’s experienced.
How it all began
A few weeks ago, our Krups grinder died. It had been a bit
inconsistent and unreliable for a while, and despite careful cleaning and care,
it didn’t seem to be improving. It has always introduced a lot of static into
the grounds, but recently it had seemed to turn into a fully fledged Van de
Graaf generator, so that removing grounds from the hopper was a really messy
business. Then it failed completely and we had to think about getting a new
grinder.
I had been pondering trying to get an espresso machine again. We had a
Krups machine some time ago, and while it wasn’t a semi-professional level
machine, we enjoyed using it and the coffee it produced. After a few years, the
pump failed and we had it repaired, then the pump went again a few years after
that, and we couldn’t really justify getting it repaired (fairly expensively)
yet again. It was clear that it wasn’t made using good quality,
long-lasting components. So we switched to using the Aeropress. I love the
Aeropress to bits. I think it’s a great, fun and best of all cheap way to
brew really decent coffee. I recommend it to a lot of people, and we’ll
certainly continue to use ours when we’re in a rush, on holiday or when making
coffee for one in an espresso machine seems like too much trouble. However,
it has two drawbacks: it doesn’t make real espresso1, and you need to use
roughly double the amount of coffee that you use for espresso. Since we buy
fairly decent coffee beans, this was beginning to get a bit expensive.
Rocky
So when the Krups grinder failed, I decided to replace it with a model
that was going to be much longer lasting2, and which would also be
suitable for making espresso if we decided to get a new machine. I
did some research and the Rancilio Rocky grinder seemed to be one of
the best models I could get on my budget. It’s made of solid, heavy
components, and is sometimes used in small-scale commercial settings,
so it can withstand heavy use. We’ve been really pleased with it, and after
the hash our failing Krups made of beans, it’s a bit of a revelation: a
fine, consistent grind with no static in the grounds.
I spent ages trying to decide whether to get the version with or without
the doser. There are advantages and disadvantages to both forms: with a
doser you can leave the grinder running for a while unattended, which
is particularly useful if you also use it to grind coffee for something
other than espresso, and the vanes of the doser help to prevent the
coffee clumping. On the other hand, you get stale coffee sitting in
the doser, and it’s harder to clean. In the end I went for the doser
version. I confess that this was — in part — because I
have always thought that flipping the lever on the doser to dump the
coffee in the portafilter looked like fun when I saw people using them
in cafés. I was right, it is fun. When I was a kid, I thought
being a librarian must be brilliant, purely because they got to use the
date stamp on the library cards. I loved the ritual of clunking it down
on the ink pad and then on the card. When I told Mr. Bsag this recently,
he said he’d always wanted to be a librarian as a kid for exactly the
same reason, which goes to show that I picked the right man to marry.
But I digress…
At the same time, I had ordered an espresso starter pack from
Has Bean Coffee, which was wonderful but made me acutely aware of how
quickly we were romping through the 250g bags with our Aeropress. When I was
doing on research on grinders (and having found out about Rancilio through the
Rocky), I came across the Rancilio Silvia (or “Miss Silvia” as many call
her3).
Miss Silvia
The Rancilio Silvia espresso machine is a very sturdy unit, made of stainless
steel with a brass boiler and other components. It’s a single boiler unit (that
is, one boiler provides water for the group head to brew coffee and also the
steaming wand), so it isn’t ideal if you mostly drink cappuccinos or lattes (I
don’t). However, what you get is a machine with almost commercial-level
components in a small, easy to maintain package which is ideal for home use.
They have been making the Silvia (with only minor changes to the design) for
many years, and as it is a popular model, there is an enormous amount of
information available about how to use it, care for it, and how to modify it to
improve performance.
Most of the reviews and articles agree that the Silvia can be very
exacting. You can make excellent espresso, but your technique needs
to be good and consistent. While it is bound to lead to a little
frustration, I think that’s a great quality in a machine to learn on,
because it forces you to understand all the variables involved in making
espresso, and how to control them. The articles also agree that one of
the most difficult aspects of the Silvia is the rather broad ‘deadband’
in the boiler heating cycle. Rancilio used a fairly cheap thermostat,
and in consequence, the water temperature can vary by as much as
10°C while brewing, which makes it difficult to get consistent
results. As a consequence, many Silvia owners end up fitting a PID controller,
which greatly reduces temperature fluctuations. It also allows you to
read the temperature of the top of the boiler continuously, so you have
a good idea what the water temperature is at every stage. I was pretty
sure that I would want to fit a PID at some point, so I decided to look
for a second-hand machine which might already have one fitted. I would
be getting the machine at a bargain price (and since the longevity of
the machine is good, buying a used one isn’t a problem if it has been
well cared for), and I would save the money and hassle of fitting a PID
myself.
By chance, I saw an advert for just such a machine on one of the coffee forums.
It had been posted a while ago, but when I enquired it was still available.
After seeing it working (and more importantly, drinking a coffee made with it),
I bought the machine last weekend, and have been having an enormous amount of
fun with it ever since.
Experimentation and over-caffeination
On the first day, I drank too much coffee. Far too much coffee. I was
engrossed in trying out the machine, tweaking the grind and the dosing
and tamping and before I knew it, I had gone a bit over the top. At some
point, I wondered why the world was jiggling around, and then realised
that it was actually me. Perhaps I had drunk enough
coffee for the day.
It is addictive though: not just the coffee itself, but also the
experimentation and the pursuit of the perfect espresso. I know that some
people think making espresso is too much of a hassle, but I’m really enjoying
it. Even on the days when I’m rushing to get to work, I like the meditative
aspects to the routine of turning on and warming the machine, grinding the
coffee and evening the dose, then tamping and pulling the shot. I’m a geek and
a scientist and I love measuring and tweaking and trying different things out.
The Silvia is a pleasure to use in this respect. It’s solid and heavy, and you
get that indefinable satisfaction to be found in using well-made things.
Amazingly, I’ve made very few shots fit only for the sink. Some have
been really lovely, and I’m gradually improving all the time. I’ve got
the grind right now, so that a 1oz shot takes about 25 sec to pour. I’m
working on getting a more even distribution now, because I’m getting
‘blonding’ a bit early. That usually happens when fissures or holes
open up in the puck of coffee, allowing water to rush through without
extracting properly. I could do with developing a slightly thicker crema
too, but I’m sure it will come. Sorry, but I’ve been boring Mr. Bsag to
tears with all these geeky technical details all week, so now it’s your
turn…
Anyway, I’m really pleased with Miss Silvia and her partner Rocky. I’m learning
all the time, and enjoying some really great coffee, which is the ultimate point of the
exercise. In time I hope to be on first name terms with Miss Silvia, but I’m
not quite there yet.